THE TERROIR OF WHISKEY :: Rob Arnold

 A version of this review previously appeared in Shelf Awareness and is republished here with permission.

"Terroir" is a "somewhat controversial concept with an unsettled definition." It is essentially a French descriptor for how crop flavors are influenced by the environment (soil layers, topography, climate, etc.). As master distiller at Firestone & Robertson Distilling Co., maker of the TX Whiskey brand, Rob Arnold is spellbound by terroir. And Arnold himself is a study in terroir--almost all of his mother's side of the family worked in bourbon.

Arnold undertook a years-long process to educate himself about how environment affects product, ultimately writing a Ph.D. dissertation for Texas A&M's plant-breeding program on "how genetic and environmental forces influence corn-derived flavors in whiskey." In an industry that commonly uses co-op and commodity sales, TX Whiskey is one of a rising number of distillers sourcing grains from one farm to understand better environmental impact on flavor.

Arnold's thesis research forms the backbone of The Terroir of Whiskey, an in-depth look at crop growth, fermentation, distillation and aging of wine and whiskey. The wine industry--known for using terroir--was where Arnold began his immersive journey to show a correlation in whiskey. His world travel to wine and whiskey producers, discussions with makers, tastings, analyses and conclusions make for heady reading. Arnold smartly and capably writes for the distiller, educated taster and novice alike, breaking issues into lay language as necessary (even using Bugs Bunny, Daffy Duck and the Tasmanian Devil to explain). Arnold provides specifics for the reader to taste along with him, resulting in a full sensory educational experience. 

SHAKE STRAIN DONE :: J.M. Hirsch

A version of this review previously appeared in Shelf Awareness and is republished here with permission.

The art of craft cocktails requires knowledge, palate, imagination and aesthetic. While "mixology" sounds neat, an "ology" can make things feel daunting, and guides often leave home bartenders to wonder about mysterious ingredients. J.M. Hirsch, editorial director of Christopher Kimball's Milk Street, has come to the rescue. The practical concepts set out in Shake Strain Done help take the mystery out of mixology. Hirsch, a James Beard Award winner, works with common language so even a beginner can figure out if they might enjoy crème de violette before dropping $30 on a bottle. It's still about branching out and experimenting, but with concrete tools in one's bar apron.

Hirsch (High Flavor, Low Labor) breaks liquor into 12 sensory categories (fruity, sour, smoky, etc.) He then presents recipes in two easy-to-follow formats--through ingenious "cocktail cartography," based on its sensory category (with lovely illustrations by Lika Kvirikashvili) and by base alcohol. Each descriptor has its own chart, branching out into sub-categories. For example, if Manhattans are your bag, start on the "warm" chart. If the thought of warm and herbal floats your ice, head to the "herbal" branch to find the Sazerac, including a page reference for the recipe.  

Speaking of ice, Hirsch also breaks down the basics of bar tools, glassware and technique. His examples of shelf stocking present a basic home bar with the idea of making "great cocktails using as few bottles as possible." For stocking the bar bookshelf, Shake Strain Done is tough to beat. 

THE COMPTON COWBOYS :: Walter Thompson-Hernandez

A version of this review previously appeared in Shelf Awareness and is republished here with permission.

"Streets raised us. Horses saved us." Growing up in Southeast Los Angeles, Walter Thompson-Hernández wondered why there were no black cowboys. Then one day in Compton, he saw a show-stopping group of black horsemen riding down the street. "The cowboys had an allure to them that went beyond words. They seemed ethereal--like superheroes on the backs of mystic creatures who, I imagined, communicated in a language unknown to me."

Now a reporter for the New York Times, Thompson-Hernández reached out to the present-day Compton Cowboys. Many have ridden together since the 1990s and all started in the Compton Jr. Posse. Founded in the 1980s, the nonprofit was formed to provide at-risk youth an alternative to drugs and gangs, teaching them to care for themselves through caring for horses.

In The Compton Cowboys, Thompson-Hernández traces the roots of Compton, the organization and its members, providing heartrending insight into their varying paths to the Posse. They continue to challenge stereotypes and ride with "a free and rebellious spirit." While carrying the legacy of Compton's black cowboys, there is an effort to make the Cowboy culture accessible and cool--designer clothes, Air Jordans--and allow the armor that keeps them safe within their present realities. "Being black cowboys was as much about having a community where you could be your unapologetic self as it was about riding." Compelling and transforming, The Compton Cowboys is a story of history, race, tradition and pride, given life by Thompson-Hernández's insight and care.

STREET SENSE: History, culture, social commentary. This book has them all. But it's the stories of the riders, varied  and evocative, that make this a fascinating read. The inherent conflict of merging tradition and current culture to save at-risk youth is all important in a city with one of the highest death-by-gun rates in the country.

COVER NERD SAYS:  Just about anything with a horse on the cover at least grabs my initial attention. But cowboys in Compton? I was hooked. Smart placement and sizing of the title, which doesn't try to be smart or snazzy. Along with the powerful cover image, it quickly lets you know what you're going to find inside. Well done.